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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, situated prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.